Thread Theory Fulford Jeans Pattern

Thread Theory Fulford Jeans Pattern

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The Fulford Jeans sewing pattern is a truly classic straight leg jean.  This pair of jeans features a regular fit in the thigh and straight legs.  They feature a conservatively high rise reminiscent of vintage work jeans that sits just below the waist.  Sew these jeans in a rugged denim and expect to wear this hard wearing pair for years to come.

This jeans pattern features all of the traditional details required when sewing denim - add lots of strengthening topstitching, learn to sew flatfell inseams, construct a zipper fly, and apply rivets to high stress areas.  As an added bonus, the waistband is drafted in two pieces with a center back seam hidden under the belt loop.  This construction style allows for very easy fit modifications, even once the jeans are fully constructed.  This is a perfect solution for the home sewist who might like to sew these as a surprise gift or for the wearer with a fluctuating waistline.

Materials Required (all sizes):

Self Fabric: Denim fabric (9-16 oz) or bottom-weight fabrics such as twill or corduroy. Fabrics with no stretch or up to 2% elastane (spandex) are suitable. A higher elastane content will change the fit and it may be necessary to size down. Ensure that your sewing machine can handle the denim weight you choose by sewing through five layers of fabric.

Small sizes (26 - 30): 3 yds main fabric if 45" wide, or 2 yards if 60" wide.

Large sizes (40-50) 45" wide fabric is not recommended. 3 yards of 60" wide main fabric.

Pocket Lining: Pocketing, broadcloth, or other strong cottons or cotton blends. This is a great opportunity to use novelty printed cottons as it will only be visible from the inside of the jeans!

Interfacing (for fly extension, zipper shield, and waistband pieces): Medium weight fusible interfacing.

Other Supplies:

  • 1/2" to 1" in diameter metal shank jeans button
  • 6 pocket rivets
  • regular polyester thread.
  • Topstitching thread (thicker than regular thread and usually a contrast color).
  • Optional 3" x 2.5" scrap of leather or washable paper (Kraft-tex) for decorative back label
  • A metal zipper; 7" if sewing smaller sizes (26- 38), or 8" if sewing larger sizes (40-50)